Tutorial 1: Making Templates, Marking & Cutting Fabric

Terms Used in this Lesson

Straight grain

The straight grain is the direction either up or down the weave of the fabric. On patterns, it is usually indicated by either a straight line, with or without arrows at either end. There is very little or no stretch in the fabric when pulled with the straight grain.

Bias or Cross Grain

This means going diagonally across the weave of the fabric. If the fabric is pulled across the bias, there is a great deal of stretch.

Across the Grain

From selvedge to selvedge. There is a more stretch in the fabric across the grain than down the length of the fabric. Border strips are usually cut across the grain to allow a little easing of quilt centre into the borders.

Marking and Cutting Templates - The Ohio Star Pattern

Templates for hand sewing do not include seam allowances, the marked line is the sewing line. Templates for machine sewing include 1/4" or 6mm seam allowance.

The easiest way to make templates is to lay a sheet of templastic or any opaque or clear plastic of the pattern drawing, and then using a ruler and either a grey lead pencil or a marking pen, trace the pattern shape onto the plastic. Cut out using household scissors.

Mark any straight grain lines onto the pattern pieces. If these are not marked on the original pattern, mark them yourself keeping the outside edge of the block on the straight grain.

When marking the grain lines on the inside templates, it is wise to join a bias seam to a straight grain seam whenever possible. Some templates will be used in two different places with the straight grain lines on different edges. For instance template B. Making separate templates for B & C may eliminate any confusion.

Why is the grain of the fabric so important?

When either sewing or pressing, it is very easy to stretch fabric. If both the seams are cut and sewn on the bias, that is across the grain of the fabric, the seam can be stretched. But when even just one of the seams is on the straight grain, it automatically helps to keep the seam from stretching.

If the edges of the block are not cut on the straight grain, the entire block can become out of proportion during sewing and pressing . This is particularly so where large filler triangles are used for an 'on point' quilt setting. The outside edge can become quite ruffled because the fabric has stretched.

Marking Fabric

** Always wash and steam iron fabrics prior to marking **

To avoid the fabric slipping on smooth surfaces, a rough or sandpaper covered board is very handy. I have an old cutting mat that is rough after many years of use, but a sheet of fine sandpaper tucked under the fabric works quite well.

*****HINT*****

Use a sharp pencil. If the pencil is blunt the line can add up to 2mm onto the pattern size and that will in turn make the overall finished block larger than desired.

Marking for Hand Sewing

Mark around templates using a sharp HB pencil on light fabrics, or a white or silver pencil on dark fabrics. Take particular care to mark the corners of the templates as this is the sewing line and the seam does not extend into the seam allowance, but begins and finishes on the marked line. Ensure that a minimum of 1/2" or 1.2cm is left between the pattern pieces when marking. This allows a 1/4" seam allowance for each pattern piece. To achieve accuracy, a 1/4" seam ruler can be used.

Triangles can be marked and cut in this way: In this diagram the straight grain is on the short sides of the triangle. Cut along the dotted lines.

Marking for Machine Sewing

The marked line is the cutting line. Since the seam allowance is included in the template the pattern pieces can be butted together. Cut along the marked lines. Where strips or squares are required a quilter's ruler and rotary cutter may be used rather than marking individual pattern pieces. In this diagram the straight grain of the fabric is on the long side of the triangle. Cut along the dotted lines.

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Next: Hand Machine Sewing a Block